Contact

I have removed the contact form for the time being because it is being flooded with spam and other rubbish. Please contact me using the Comments box at the bottom of this page. Your message will automatically be relayed to my email inbox, and I’ll reply as soon as I can. Please be sure to include your email address.

Another way is to send me a message through Facebook. To find me there, search for JohnHoldenFishing.

11 thoughts on “Contact”

  1. Hi John,

    I saw your video about the easy casting method. I was wondering what the release point and moment should be when casting like that. Right now, I’m not performing the standard cast but stretch the set with hooks and led on the beach behind my rod creating a total lenght of my rod and the line with hooks and led on the beach instead of under my rod like you showed. Then I take a couple of steps towards the beach and cast out. If you’d like, because I could understand the explanation is a bit messy, I could draw it out and send it to you. I’d appreciate your advise! Kind regards. Louis

    1. I understand your explanation because so many fishermen cast that way. While it can work well, it is never going to be a very efficient way to achieve good distances, and there will be control issues as well including mistiming the release.
      The real issue here is that having the sinker laid out away from the rod inevitably means that the rod has to move quite a long way before it starts to bend. Generally speaking, the quicker it starts working the better. The rod is more efficient, and you have more time and space to work in.
      When the sinker is extended away from the rod, the only way to gain efficiency is to increase the layout angle of the tackle, and the amount of body rotation the caster uses. This is known as the South African cast. It’s a great way to cast and well worth trying.
      The alternative is to preset the layout so that the rod comes under pressure very early, and the way to do that is to lay the sinker inside the rod tip as in the Easy Cast video. This way you don’t need to use much body rotation. although a little always helps.
      I suggest you give this a try if only to experience feeling the rod start working properly. Technique-wise, the key is to be slow (and I mean really, really slow to begin with) and to emphasise the left hand pull rather than the more natural right hand push. Also, aim high. Forget the steps as well. Along with the early compression produced by the inside sinker layout, this pull will give you greater control and far more distance.
      So far as timing the release goes, by far the best approach is to concentrate on the overall technique and leave the letting go to take care of itself, which it will when the rod works properly. This is a matter of confidence more than anything. The hard part is not to interfere!

  2. Hi John,
    Firstly many thanks for taking the time to post these videos (very helpful and explained well) . Please I need some advice. I live in Devon so am in a good area for sea fishing, The problem I have is ive been fishing for some years, But only have very cheap gear. I’m wishing to upgrade but keep watching these you tube videos in which the people have spent some 4 to 6 hundred kwid on there rods , and the same on reals. Now I do understand that spending a great deal on gear gets you a long way, Unfortunately I’m not in that position. Could you please give me some advice. I want to spend around 150.00 to 200.00 on a rod , only the one , and around 150.00 on a good long cast multiplier , I’m hoping you can help me here as if I were to ask a shop I will probably get something good but something they want to sell … Keep up the good videos ,, Very kind regards , Jim (p.s do you give personal casting lessons)

    1. Hi Jim,
      There is absolutely no need to spend a fortune on rods or reels in order to fish and cast well. Many sensibly priced rods and reels will suit your needs, but my personal choice is a Daiwa Sandstorm rod and one of their Millionaire 7 series multipliers. I use the 13ft multiplier Sandstorm and the basic 7HT reel. The rod has performed well for about seven years already. The 7HT is about fifteen years old and has never given a moment’s trouble. I can easily get past 200yd with 150g of lead, which is way more than necessary for successful fishing. I gave up on top-of-the-range gear a long time ago because it offers me no benefits and the prices are stupid. I hope this helps. Sorry to say I can’t do casting lessons at the moment. There are plenty of good teachers on the Sea Angler magazine list. If you email them, they’ll advise.

  3. Hi
    First of all I enjoyed very much to see your you tubes!

    Usually I am doing surf fishing with spinning reel
    in order to have more distance I purchased the following reel
    Daiwa M7HTMAG
    I have zero! knowledge with this kind of reels
    now I am looking for suitable rod
    Can you recommend on specific rods or give me the most important characteristics
    BTW
    I am 175 cm height
    usually I am targeting to fish of 500-1000 Gr

    Thanks in advance

    Doron

    1. Begin by using the same rod that you use with your spinning reel. That may work better than you think. Ideally, the Daiwa reel will perform best with a rod that has a medium-fast action and a fairly stiff handle. A rod about 4m long seems to suit most fishermen. Normally it is wise to avoid rods much longer than this. In the UK, I recommend the 13ft Daiwa Sandstorm. But any rod of similar specifications would be just as good. There is no need to buy very expensive rods, or specialist casting rods, for this type of fishing. Regards, John

  4. Hello John,

    Nice to hear from you again, and thanks for your reply.

    I remember watching once on line a british fellow using a wooden tripod to hold the rod specially on rocky surfaces. Can you recall anything like that? Three wooden flat pieces united by a bolt and a hinge.

    Cheers,

    Martin

    1. Yes, they’re still used by a few fishermen. Very easy and cheap to make, and more stable than you might think. Every bit as good as the expensive tripods in many respects.

  5. John, Hope you can help me out here, I have a Dream Machine I think it’s a match but I bought it second hand so I am not sure, anyway fishing Kessingland last Thursday one of the ceramic inserts came out on close inspection the frame ring is cracked as well, I love the rod and was thinking it deserved a complete make over, so which rings do I go for stick with the original BNHG,s or go for the T-KWSG witch look really nice though expensive and would they suit the rod action wise?.

    1. Hi Pat,
      Your Dream Machine certainly deserves a full rebuild. The blank is right up there with the best of the modern stuff so far as fishing goes, and unlike a lot of rods of similar performance it is quite versatile and easy to use.

      A decent rebuild isn’t going to be cheap, so it makes sense to opt for good rings. I would be happy with most of the popular rings. BNHG would retain the rod’s classic look, but you need to be careful here because there are a lot of fake ones around which are pretty bad.

      I cannot think of anyone better to advise you than Richard Holgate at MetaLite in Walton on Naze. He carries a wide range of top quality fittings, and he does a great rebuild including hi-build finish. You will find cheaper, but not better. The rod deserves the money being spent on it, and once rebuilt will give you many years of excellent service.

      Richard is on 01255 675680.

  6. Hi John
    Hope you can help and I can make my question clear. I am getting very confused about arm set up position mentioned in text and that shown in the video/pictures shown in the book. On p36/37 you mention about very slightly changing how you hold the rod in the layout phase. Does this relate to the video of the small easy cast (p36) or the rod and arm extension on p37. My confusion stems from you saying ‘right elbow should form a right angle more or less’ (top of p37) then ‘avoid stretching so far the right arm is forced straight’. However when I look at the video for the ‘rod and arm extension’ video the right arm is completely straight, and it also looks completely straight in picture 3 of the small easy cast photo sequence.

    The reason I ask is that when I am practicing I am finding it difficult to keep the leader straight without extending my right arm, very much like in the photo sequence of the original long distance casting book.

    I am using a 12foot rod with a drop between 5-6 feet, which allows me to feel the rod compress.

    Any help gratefully received, my casting has improved following your intructions.

    Kind regards

    Larsen

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